I, the lone "Mountaineer", were planning to attempt an ambitious traverse of the Deception Basin, Including MT Deception, Mystery & Little Mystery, with 8 other Boapler's, in ONP.
Meeting at the trailhead on July 4th, we made excellent time up to Royal Basin which is rapidly melting out, (but there is still a lot of snow in the upper basins). We stopped for a snack in the upper basin before the final push over Deception Pass.
At that time I observed a lone climber descending with only an ice ax, (I assumed he was a scrambler camped in the basin). The Climber walked directly towards our party and our plans changed at that point. He was able to let us know he was part of a 2 man party,(2,17 year olds!), that had just summited Deception and was traversing down the South gully where Jake had slipped in the high angle snow, bouncing from side to side his helmet had popped off and had sustained major headwounds, was unconcious, and unresponsive. Jeff, the climbing partner had the presence of mind to secure the victim, apply very basic first aid, and get him warm and as dry as possible, then go for help. (they were not expected out for 3 days).
One of our party rushed down to find a ONP ranger, and the others rushed up and over the pass towards the accident site with Jeff, on the far side on the mountain. Some of the party dropped packs in Deception Basin others maintained a higher track more directly toward the accident site. Traversing across high-angle, unstable, talus, scree and boulders towards the gulley it was determined that it would be unsuitable for such a large party. We set up a base camp in the basin and started heating water, gathering equipment and gear. The ranger had caught up with the group in the gulley and had radioed in rescue helicopters, (it was a relief to know they were on their way).
Finding the victim was tough, even with Jeff leading the group. (Remember he had climbed deception, then dropped to the basin, traversed out and found us, we were worried about him crashing and tried to keep him hydrated and fueled up w/ food). They found the victim about the same time the chopper arrived into the basin. The victim was lodged underneath a snowbank to give some protection from the sun/wind/rain, and was unresponsive. The Coast Guard helicopter had trouble finding the site within the confines of the narrow gully, and were probing the entire area for at least an hour. After what seemed like forever the chopper moved in and tried to inch up the gully to the site. They repeatedly left to get fuel, dump fuel, all the while the sun was dropping further and further in the horizion.
After several tries and impending darkness looming, the Coast Guard heli left, (our hearts sank as we didn't think Jake would survive the night, and we didn't want to move him by hand). Just about dark another Navy Rescue heli got upon the scene. I believe it was a Blackhawk and a bit smaller than the Coast Guard heli, he was able to nudge his way up the gully. (4'-6' CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ROCK & ROTORS!) It was so far into the gully they'd disappear from view from our vantage point! They managed to drop a Navy rescuer and litter, hovering for an hour at a time. Let me just say how loud and scary they are hovering above you, all I could think of was the heli wreck on MT Hood a couple of years ago! (2003?)
After backing out w/o the litter in the dark we were all crushed, (actually the were securing Jake into the litter for his trip out). The Navy guys have "NERVES of STEEL" and nudged the heli so far into the gully that base camp lost sight of the rear rotor lights! This lasted over an hour! They managed to load Jake & the Rescuer and head to Harborview Medical Center. We all sighed a collective sigh of relief at the sight of the headlamps heading back towards camp. Our group was able to feed, shelter, and keep warm the ranger and Jeff the victims partner.
Saturday July 5th, we slept late as we could, had a hot breakfast and sent a party to recover gear from the accident site, after which we divy'd it up and humped back over the pass, to the ranger tent, and then out to the trailhead. Jake's condition is slowly improving, brain swelling has gone down, but has developed pnemonia in his lungs, it is possible he may enjoy a full recovery. We dropped off Jeff to his parents at Wild Birds Unlimited, with all of his and jakes gear. It was Jeff's presence of mind, quick thinking and actions, along with some incredible luck of finding our party of MOFA trained, experienced mountaineers, a remarkable, very strong, capable, 22 year old ranger with a radio, and an amazing rescue pilot and crew all made it possible to have a positive outcome!
(We had made a collective decision to leave our FRS radios at the TH!)
Although, we made some mistakes, and discussed them "ad nauseam", it was a very fulfilling & rewarding experience.
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