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Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

Last post 02-25-2010, 10:05 PM by jeffstrt. 7 replies.
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  •  02-24-2010, 12:14 AM 99464

    Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    Anita and I headed for Mt Baker this past Friday and Saturday to capitialize on the the glorious sunny weather and stable conditions. Our objective was to climb the Polish Route on the north face of Colfax Peak. This route has 2 pitches of WI 2-3+ followed be a short pitch of steep snow leading up to the 4th crux pitch, which can be WI 5 or 6 depending on wether the free hanging column touches down or not. This is followed by 2-3 more pitches of steep snow and WI 2 steps.

    In December Shannon and I had taken photos of the north face from the lower coleman area and they seemed to show that the crux pitch was connected but possibly thin. On our approach the early views appeared consistent with the December photos. We knew that there might be a chance that we couldn't climb the crux pitch but we thought the route looked fun and we'd give it a try.

    With fabulous sunny weather we hiked up to our 8,000' foot camp on the glacier on Friday. As we approached the base of the climb on Saturday morning we got an entirely new view point that showed that the crux column was NOT touched down... it was just an icicle dangling in mid air about 6 feet away from the wall behind it. This almost certainly ruled out that we could climb the crux but we decided to proceed up the route anyway because the pitches below the crux looked plenty fun and I had already climbed the other route nearby and wanted to see some new ground.

    Here are photos and commentary from our trip...

    Anita marches up the hogs back towards the benches below the edge of the Coleman Glacier

    Anita pauses and gazes at the view of Baker and Colfax...

    Just on the glacier now with a magnificant view of Mt Baker summit and Colfax Peak

    Anita leads the way up the Coleman glacier with Lincoln Peak as a backdrop

    As we continue up the glacier our objective, Colfax Peak north face, is clearly visible

    Looking for a sheltered area out of the wind to make camp

    Camping under the icefall is no good

    Preping our camp site with our objective right in our back yard

    A beautiful sunset view of Heliotrope Ridge and the Puget Sound from our cozy camp

    Alpenglow on Baker summit and Colfax Peak as the sun begins to set

    Heading out in the early morning

    The objective is dead ahead

    Nearing the base of the Polish route

    The views from our belay stance just below the bergshrund and the start of the route

    Starting up the 1st pitch

    -->

    Starting up the 2nd pitch

    Looking down from our high point on the pocket snow field above top of pitch #2

    We can see our yellow tent far below on the glacier

    The crux pitch above us... very thin, probable poor protection
    top is a free hanging icicle... not connected... WI 6? ... not to be climbed by us today... we turned around here

    Here is some more details on the routes for those interested...

    Here are the two routes on the north face. The Polish route (our objective) is indicated with yellow arrows.
    The Cosley-Houston route is indicated with green arrows. The red circle indicates the polish
    routes crux pitch... a steep pitch with a free hanging column ... WI 5/6 depending on conditions
    and wether the column has touched down... it wasn't touched down

    Lower Polish route detail > (P1) 50m WI 2/3 (P2) 50m WI 3+ (P3) 25m snow 40/50%

    Polish route crux detail > Looks like about 25-30m of WI 6 in present condition...
    Very thin with probable poor protection... the column coming out of the couloir
    at top of the cliff is a free dangling icicle that is about 5 feet away from the
    lower wall and whose tip reaches about 6 feet below the ledge behind it... if this
    fattened up it would connect about 20 feet down on the lower wall and probably go at WI 5

  •  02-24-2010, 12:51 AM 99465 in reply to 99464

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    excellent!
  •  02-24-2010, 1:04 AM 99466 in reply to 99464

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    A few more of my favorite pictures from the trip...

     

  •  02-24-2010, 5:09 AM 99467 in reply to 99466

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    Jeff & Anita - Absolutely spectacular!  Kudos on the attempt.  It was a great weekend indeed!
    Don't hate me cuz I'm beautiful...
  •  02-24-2010, 8:07 AM 99468 in reply to 99467

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    When are you guys going to quit climbing sissy stuff and go try something difficult?  

    That's a badass peak you guys.  Solid effort.   


    Personal Website: http://alpinetarn.net
  •  02-24-2010, 11:36 AM 99469 in reply to 99468

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    JDumelin:

    When are you guys going to quit climbing sissy stuff and go try something difficult?  

     

    Ouch.


    It's your lead. Chop, chop.
  •  02-25-2010, 10:11 AM 99470 in reply to 99469

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    Very nice you two! Very jealous, especially now that the weather has returned to normal and who knows when the next opp. will coincide with my schedule.
  •  02-25-2010, 10:05 PM 99473 in reply to 99470

    Re: Colfax Peak, North Face/Polish Route attempt - Feb 18-19, 2010

    Thanks everybody, I'm hoping to go back later this spring after the spring freeze thaw cycles have fattened up the crux pitch a bit and give it another try.  Anybody want to join me?
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