This past weekend I organized a trip to Squamish. Besides Tom quite expectedly nobody else expressed interest to come along. Kind of a bummer but things are easier when there are only two of us. Wayne organized another outing for the Seattle craggers for the same weekend so we made plans to meet up with them Sat morning. This was also the week of the Squamish Mountain Festival http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com/.
We decided to leave Seattle Friday early morning to avoid traffic. There was no wait at the border and we got to Squamish around 9:30. We checked the climbers campground but it was hopelessly full. Having no place to sleep is not a big deal in Squamish so we went climbing. This was my first time in Squamish and I was attracted by the main climbing attraction in town – The Chief so we decided to start at Grand Wall Base. This area is about half km wide and offers outstanding crack or steep face climbing including the famous pitch called Split Pillar. Just Google for pictures of “Split pillar” and you’ll see what I’m talking about.
I meant to take it easy and explore the area. Tom had another plan. We ran into two guys below Exasperator who were willing to let us go first so Tom decided to warm up on the first pitch - 5.10a finger crack. There’s one thing I learned on this first climb. You can become a better climber just by arriving to Squamish because the grades are soft. Encouraged by becoming 10a crack climbers in one day we decided to continue on the Peasan’t Route. I led the first pitch 5.10a lieback/corner and Tom the second 5.10c groove. To our left was a giant flake which I could not stop looking at. We checked the guide book. The route was called simply The Flake and the first pitch goes up to 10b. It started as a fun chimney followed by sustained more challenge than fun lieback. I was very happy to reach the top. Second pitch was easy 5.7. We moved to the north part to finish up the day with Seasoned in the Sun – 5.10a finger crack.
After a shower at the rec center and a fish taco in the brewery we checked out the Mountain Fest. We got there just in time to see Ed Cooper’s presentation. Since we were quite beat by The Flake we didn’t stay for more and left to find a place to sleep along the forest road.
On day two Wayne and his group was heading to The Gorge to climb Star Check - famous 4 pitch 5.9 sports route.
The Gorge
I’ve seen a poster of that route in the brewery the night before where a climber climbs rock face above a raging river. It looked awesome so I convinced Tom to overcome his hostility against bolts and to join Wayne. Tom and I decided to climb a 5.9 hand crack to kill the time while waiting.
Star Check waiting line
The crack was located below the highway so it was full of dry mud and the occasional beer can. At the top we were awaited by a pair of rusty chains directly bolted to the rock. I don’t remember the name and would not recommend climbing it anyway. By the time we got down it was our turn on Star Check.
Adrianne clipping the first bolt
Tom
After lunch we followed Wayne to Cheakamus Canyon for more sport climbing. At the Foundation Wall we climbed No Name (5.9), Real TV (awkward 5.10a) and Polychronopolous (easy 5.10d). At the Forgotten Wall we climbed Low Impact, The Voodoo That You Do (both 5.10b) and Forgotten Realm (5.10a). One thing I learned on the second day was if you like to combine climbing and socializing sport climbing is the way to go.
Again after shower and food we went to check the Mountain Fest. We got there in time to see Majka Burhardt’s presentation about climbing in Ethiopia.
For Sunday we planned to go back to what Tom calls “real” climbing and do Rock On (5.10a). This route is a classic climb following corner systems for 5-6 pitches on The Chief in The Apron North Face part of South Gully area. With popular climb comes waiting lines. There was one team in front of us but one of them was a gym rat with limited experience climbing outside and it took him nearly 1 hour to climb the first pitch.
Gym climber Kwan and his partner on first pitch 5.7
There was definitely enough time for a nap.
By the time it was our turn there were two other teams lined up behind us so I quickly led the first pitch. I took off perhaps too quickly because I left my water bottle behind. Tom led the second pitch 5.8.
Third pitch was an awkward 5.9 corner and finger crack. Here’s Tom practicing his face expression for the next pitch 5.10a lieback.
The pitch was finished by a short traverse.
The team ahead of us climbed the 5.10a section as 1 pitch which made things to move faster. This picture shows both pitches. The first pro right below the first crux and the leader at the second crux.
We climb it as two pitches to share the fun with Tom leading the first part and me the second. Here’s Tom getting to the top of the second crux near the belay.
While belaying I was watching two climbers on the Opal Wall opposing to the North Face wall most likely climbing Mercy Street 5.10b.
The descend is one single rope rappel and walk off down giant slab
Besides Fred Beckey we ran into Mark Westman who graciously let us use his rope for the rappel on the descend from Rock On. The reason I mention this is because we ran into Mark two weeks earlier while climbing the West Face on SEWS in WA Pass. He was climbing a slightly different and significantly harder route that eventually joined with ours. Here’s Mark climbing a 10b roof.
Anyway Squamish is a great place for climbing no matter what your taste is because it has everything. So if you haven’t been there do anything you have to to check it out. If you have to quit your job to find the time check with 5.10 since they seem to have a trademark for quitting your job.
